We have been working on trying to set up a fun pylon racing series for this season. We decided on a 'spec' plane that won't break the bank, and are trying to pin down a set of simple and effective rules to keep it fun, yet allow some leeway for the guys that want to try to make a decent plane even better.

Following are the preliminary rules. They will be shown and discussed at the February meeting. I thought it might be nice to 'let the cat out of the bag' a week early, and possibly get some input or see if there are any details that are not clear.
============================================================================

Electric Pylon Racing Rules
(V1.1- 6/9/06)

These rules are to allow Club racing in an enjoyable, competitive, low-cost format.

Aircraft: All aircraft must be the stock GWS F-4U Corsair ($56)(http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=GWS1065 ): No modifications allowed to airframe, except Stock spar material can be changed. Landing gear is not required, but may be used. The Slope Glider Version ($30)( http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=GWS1067 ) is available for a spare airframe.

Motor: Any Stock GWS EPS-300 or 350 geared motor is allowed. ($17) (The kits are inconsistent in which motor and ratio is shipped, and this will allow guys to play with ratios and props.) *** update *** The outrunner we chose is in stock at Hobby RC. The battery rules remain, 8xNi or 2sLiPo.
This motor is best run with an E-Flite 9x7.5 prop and 8xKAN700 (2/3A size cells). Barb also stocks these.
Battery: 8 cell NiMh or NiCd or 2 cell LiPo. Size is open.

Prop: Open

Saftety: AMA standard Pylon safety regulations will apply. This means a ‘bump cap’ (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1613548098 ) as a minimum.

Racing: Course is 2 pylons, 250-275 feet apart, parallel to the main runway.

The field of planes will be divided into heats, with a maximum of 5 planes per heat.

2 pylon judges are located behind the flight line perpendicular to the pylons. Starter and Scorekeeper will control the start and count laps for all aircraft.

A hand launch start is conducted with a countdown to “zero” announced to the pilots. 10 laps constitute a heat and must be flown by each aircraft in order to finish the heat.

Cutting a pylon is a loss of a lap. After 2 cuts a pilot is finished.

Mid-air collisions result in both aircraft landing immediately.

The heats will be shuffled between rounds, 3 rounds minimum.

Scoring: 1st place = 4 points, 2nd place = 3 points, 3rd place = 2 points, 4th place = 1 point. No points if plane did not finish.

Motors and batteries of the top finishers can be and will be checked for “stock” condition.

Rule Changes: (yes, there may be some at some point!) A race will be run with the rules as they have been stated prior to that race. There will be no changes to the rules until after all racing is completed at the current race. Any modifications to the rules will be addressed in a Pilot’s meeting after the race concludes and awards are distributed. No modifications to these rules will be done without 100% agreement of those registered Pilots attending a race. Any changes to the rules that are the result of the Pilots meeting would take effect starting at the next race.

(Updated 6-19-06 & 8-28-07)

Hey, the middle of the pack is going to be crowded! I don't anticipate being among the top finishers, by any stretch... IF I finish, I'll be setting a slow pace

I intend to do a bunch of testing and post my suggestions here. My plane should be complete theis week.

Yes, I suggested SlowSticks to start, but was shot down by several due to the wind thing. I really don't care. We could race IFO's or 3D planes for all it really matters, as long as we all have fun. Hopefully, we can get some good discussion going and come to a concensus.

I'm starting mine tonight, so should be testing in the air towards the end of the week. Being MY first GWS warbird, I am taking a lot on people's word. Let's figure out what's best and run with it.

My original thought was a 'modified class', where we would only limit by a 'spec' battery pack or weight, or whatever. Personally, I'd build my own plane, so it would be easily replaced (with new modifications) after I crashed it (each heat?)... Something like 2s1320, or even 2s730 would be fine with me... Want to get crazy? 3s2100??? Again, I really don't care as long as it's cheap and fun... I'm easy!

Guys,  It sounds like we are all saying about the same thing, "Lets do something that we can have some fun doing that doesn't break the bank."  I also have a Slow-Stick already and would probably be just as happy flying it in the beginning as I would the Cousair.  The only thing I think might be an issue with them is the length of the course and the number of trips around. 

A lot of good suggestions/cmts here.  Some comments have a familiar ring back to the days when we were starting Q 500 pylon racing.  Up front, it's sounds logical to let a lot of different types of equipment to be used, in the interest of making it easy on folks who already have planes in hand.  Experience shows however, there is a potential problem with such action.  Rather than starting with some sort of a level playing field, we will have one type plane or another which will prove to be the best suited in terms of speed/handling.  Those with a high "lets have fun" interest, will go out and get whatever proves to work best.  Many who try it with equipment they already have which proves to be less suitable, without any positive feedback concerning performance potential, will decide not to bother.  This is the reason that most clubs with some type of pylon program have standard guidelines, to prevent the "bar" from always changing in terms of equipment, and members getting negative feedback from trying to participate with unsuitable stuff.   

Again, from my experience, the simpler the rules, and more basic/standard the equipment, the better chance we have for doing something that a broader segment of the membership will find fun!

My two cents, we should all fly the same stuff, and I don't have a preference other than something inexpensive, which can also be fun for other sport flying!

Got my Corsair done and tested. I like it!

I started with the slope glider kit, since I wanted a different paint scheme, and I have plenty of GWS 300 and 350 motors. I sanded the mold marks and filled the extra holes and recesses with DAP Fast and Final Lightweight Spackling (Wal-Mart). I filled the landing gear slots with some scrap foam. I cut and dremeled out the battery hatch for more room and air flow. I used 2 aileron servos rather than the single servo and torque rods, per the addendum to the manual. See the bottom of this page: http://www.gws.com.tw/english/product/airfly/f4u.htm I did not use the rudder. I changed the elevator to a pull-up, rather than push-up configuration, by moving the pushrod tube above the stab. I filled the extra holes. I taped the leading edge of the wing, and the bottom of the wing and fuse to reduce landing rash.

Throws:
Elevator: +/- 3/8"
Ailerons: +/- 5/8" race (low), +/- 1" sport (high)

The setup I went with:

EPS-350C-C (5.33:1)
9070RS prop
2s1100 LiPo or 8x650 NiMh (2/3AA size)
3 GWS Pico Servos
Hitec Electron 6 rx
Wattage 15a esc (junk, buy a different one, but then again, it's an on/off switch for racing )
Weight: 13.25 or 15.5 oz

Here's some pictures and video (15M): Click here to watch USCG-Corsair

I just sent an E-mail to barb to order the slope glider and motor.  Like Gene I like the idea of a white plane.  Seems like I'm always pushing the end of the day before I can get any flying in.  The white plane will give me a few more flights per day.   I'm in!   

John